Monday, August 13, 2012

Swiss National Day

August 1st is Swiss National Day. It is the equivalent of the Fourth of July or Bastille Day. It is a huge holiday. All stores are closed. Everyone who isn't already on summer holidays has the day off from work. There are barbecues and picnics and fireworks displays. We were lucky enough to have snagged an invitation to an evening party.

Jed & Helga had a full day hike planned with the boys. Since we had to be home by early evening we passed on that hike. Instead we decided to do our own shorter, easier hike. We took a train to the Lac de Joux. This area is famous for fine Swiss watch manufacturing. We walked passed the Jaeger LeCoultre factory and several other trim, clean, precise looking small factory buildings. This valley became THE watch making area because of its isolation and the long, snowy, frigid winters. It gives the residents something to during their many months indoors.

Lac de Joux
Our hike was to be halfway around the lake from one village to the next. The lake is long and narrow cutting a broad, flat valley. The hills rise sharply on the north and south. We took the train to Sentier and planned to walk to the town of LePont. The first part of the hike was on boardwalk. We saw swans and flowers. It was idyllic. We passed houses with big uncultivated fields nestled against the hills. Then we were on a foot path through the woods, passing sandy beaches and clusters of vacation homes. We walked briskly for 7.25 miles in less than 3 hours. We wore ourselves out to catch the return train that runs hourly.


Homes Along the Lac
We made the tiny rural train station with barely 5 minutes to spare. We slumped on the bench on the platform next to a waiting bicyclist. Not sure of the direction from which our train would arrive, we asked the French speaking cyclist. What he told us was incorrect and when our train arrived we nearly missed it. We ran to the other side of the track and pressed the button frantically to open the train door. The door would not open. Suddenly someone whistled loudly to us. The conductor had jumped off the train to tell us we were on the wrong side of the right train. We ran the length of the train and this time the button opened the door. I cannot imagine a conductor in the US being this helpful.

Alphorn Concert
In the late afternoon there was a Swiss Alphorn concert at the church across the street. There were three older men and one young man who set up their 8 foot instruments in the courtyard of the church. (For the Jews reading this, you can see from the photo that the horns resemble a shofar on steroids.) The concert was well attended by young and old. Children sat on the ground waving Swiss flags. It is hard to imagine songs being played by these one note horns, but somehow with their cheeks puffed out and faces turned red the four managed to play a medley of songs that can only loved by the Swiss.



Our evening started out very relaxed. It was only a few steps to our neighbors house. They invited us and a dozen other neighbors to a backyard party. The "yard" was a decked area on a slope under a huge tree with a wonderful view of the Lake and a brick pizza oven. We met many of the neighbors, including a couple of retired teachers, she Swiss, he from North Carolina. Three tables were set for our dining pleasure, the homemade pizza dough was rolled into shape and we each made our own individual pizzas with the variety of toppings provided. As we finished eating the thunder began. Literally, real thunder just when the fireworks were to start. Then it began to pour. We huddled under the tree and sun umbrellas until it was obvious it was not going to stop raining soon. Then we headed for the house.

From our perch above Lake Geneva we face the Alps and France. On the Swiss side the Lake is continuous cities and towns. Montreux is the eastern most city before the Lake turns out of our sight. Then going west there is Vevey, Cully, Pully, Lausanne, Morges and Geneva. All of these places have fireworks and they are set off consecutively. It must be a grand sight from France, but even from the neighbor's windows we were able to see the fireworks from Pully and Lausanne. It was a fabulous light show, especially exciting because the fireworks would explode simultaneously with the lightening. It was as if Mother Nature had coordinated the program, holding the rain until after dinner, and sending a bolt into the mountains in perfect timing with the man-made show. It was a stunning end to a lovely day. Happy Birthday Switzerland and Reva.

Thursday, August 2, 2012

Weekend in the Low Country

Things have begun to shut down for the summer holidays. Many shops are closed, the day care centers are closed, most businesses are closed and Europeans go on holiday in earnest. My class at the gym had five people on Monday, down from the usual twenty. So we finished up July with a weekend visit to the low countries and joined Jed and Helga who took the boys to visit her parents in Belgium.



Marcelle, our au pair, went home for a two week vacation. For the first week, Esther, the previous au pair, came from the Netherlands to fill in. Then there were no options but to get out of Dodge ourselves as Steve and I are not up to the task of full time day care. Helga and Esther drove the nine hour trip to Ghent with the boys on Saturday. Jed stayed at work through Tuesday evening then took a flight to Brussels on Wednesday. We flew out the next day and with coordinated precision we met up in the Vanthournout backyard on Thursday afternoon. Jed put on a splendid barbecue for dinner. It was very hot and the kids only needed a hose with running water to amuse themselves. It has been several years since we saw Arseen and Hilda so it was delightful to reconnect especially since the kids were there to translate for the older generation.

Canal in the Netherlands
Friday it was decided that we would drive to the Netherlands for lunch. Helga's family has a favorite restaurant where mussels are the specialty. I am still not used to the idea that one can drive for forty five minutes and be in a different country with, if not a totally different language, then at least a different culture. We headed for a town called Phillippe on a canal that leads to the ocean. There are many restaurants here and each one serves mussels with frites (not called French fries here). We gorged ourselves on these two delicacies and the local beer of course. After lunch we walked along the peaceful tree lined canal where Tern hitched a ride in the stroller and caught 40 winks.


Mussel Bench in Phillippe





Friday evening we watched the opening ceremonies of the Olympics in Arseen and Hilda's living room. It was a BBC broadcast and the commentators were very restrained. It was quite different from the enthusiastic American style of reporting. The show began at 10 PM and we made it until midnight to see the parade of nations up to the letter "G". We have not been able to see any more as we do not have a TV and have not found the games on the Internet. It is the first Olympics I've missed in decades.

A very pleasant part of our trip was a bed and breakfast called  't Eiernest. We stayed there before when we were in Belgium six years ago. It is run by Wim and Elke Lambrechts-DeBontridder. They had two little boys then, Jan Henrik and Zeger. Now the boys are half grown and are joined by an adorable three year old sister, Marjoke, who was never disturbed that we did not understand what she said to us. She just chattered happily even if we did not respond. All the kids are friendly, helpful and well mannered. The whole family made our stay very enjoyable. If you ever find yourself in Belgium near Ghent, look for the gorgeous, quiet village of Sint-Martens-Lartem. It is a great place for bicycling (absolutely flat) with a lovely B&B. 

Ghent City Hall
where Jed & Helga got married



Saturday three generations of Kaplan's went into Ghent to mingle with the crowds, buy supplies not easy to find in Switzerland and have lunch. We stopped in a tiny, plain cafe where the only decoration on the walls was a framed portrait of President Kennedy. I guess we have never again been as popular as we were in the sixties.



Helga and Tern playing in Ghent















Ghent is a beautiful, historic town that seems to be accommodating the 21st century very well. Saturday evening we joined up with the senior Vanthournouts at a typical Belgian restaurant. By typical I mean, a lovely white tableclothed, white beamed, whitewashed, antique low ceilinged room with fabulous food and good service. Our relaxed dinner took four hours. Luckily, Jed & Helga brought along the electronic babysitter, aka the iPad so the boys could watch Thomas the Train videos. (There might be a big space before the next text. I am having trouble with the layout.)

Jed, Arseen, Steve at Klokkeput Restaurant
Antwerp Train Station
After Sunday morning farewells, we headed to Antwerp before catching our flight back to Geneva. We happened on a many blocks long farmers. crafts, household items, outdoor market. You could buy a Vegematic here, remember those? as well as live birds and rabbits, to eat or for pets, clothing, shoes, tools, and food. We wandered into the beautiful train station and there was the Starbucks. Some things are the same no matter where you are on Earth.
Chocolate Fish on display at shop in Antwerp